Leket (or the verb Likut) is the Biblical Hebrew word for gleaning. Leket Israel is a non-profit that collects produce and food that would otherwise go to waste from farms, restaurants, stores and caterers, and distributes it to those in need.
The organization contacted me recently in connection with a new project they have initiated– posting commentaries on each weekly Torah portion, written by food scholars and chefs, and supplemented with recipes. As a longtime gleaner and food culture observer, they asked me if I would be willing to supply a recipe.
Looking at Leket’s website, I saw they were hosting a morning of gleaning in honor of World Food Day at a farm not far from where I live. On the spur of the moment, I decided to forego my cherished leisurely Friday morning routine of yoga, errands, coffee and newspaper, to join the gleaners.
What would we be gleaning, I wondered, as I drove past the fields and towns of the Jezreel Valley. Olives, of course! What else is being harvested this time of year? Arriving at the field, I was given a bucket, and joined about a hundred school-kids, families and other locals, picking turnips.
There is plenty of time for rumination when you pick turnips. As it turned out, we were not technically gleaning, since the entire field was leased and planted by Leket and all of its contents were destined for its distribution. What was the rationale, I wondered, behind the decision to grow turnips? Beyond pickling and adding them to soup, what other qualities do they offer?
They are easy to harvest, for one thing. Pulling them out of the earth requires remarkably little energy – the fat cream and magenta globes yield to the slightest tug – remarkably clean of mud. For a team of non-professional harvesters, this was certainly an advantage. And they are hearty and nutritious, and don’t require refrigeration or special handling. The turnip greens themselves weren’t saved – and the remorse I felt in tossing them aside was lessened by the fact that they were so very raggedy.
But I was also happy to see plenty of mallow and the first wild spinach of the season – getting an opportunistic head start thanks to the field’s irrigation. Interesting that these edible wild plants grow only on the outside borders of the harvested field – the traditional area sanctioned for gleaners. And how gracious is the land here, that even these “weeds” that appear unbidden offer up such a generous supply of sustenance.
We picked and loaded our buckets, depositing their contents into large containers, as a forklift busily made the rounds, collecting and replacing them. It was hard, physical work, crouching down to pick, then standing up to lift that heavy bucket, tromp across the muddy field littered with greens and hoist the bucket to the rim of the container. I came home exhausted, aching, crusted in mud – and ready for the next Leket gleaning.
* Because of a technical screwup, my turnip photos didn’t come out. So thanks to Ann at piercewholenutrition.blogspot.com for her photo of turnips.